"Guide to Straightening Black Hair w/Out Weighing it Down"!

Straightening black hair is relatively easier than ever.

The issue many have with straightening their hair is using the wrong products or even too much of the right products which causes the hair to weigh down.

It takes special talent to know exactly how much product to place in your hair giving you the right amount of body that every woman desire.

The following technique will show you how to wash, condition, blow dry, and straighten your hair without the use of added styling products which will which will weigh the hair down if you struggle with knowing how to distribute it evenly, or applying the right amount for the amount of hair that you have.

This method will assist you in having to use zero oil, serums, or sheen's, after styling. 

Step 1: Detangle Hair

Prep your dry hair to be washed by parting it into four sections.

Next, take a paddle brush and brush from the bottom starting at your ends all the way up to your roots. Do this one section at a time. This step will ensure that ALL kinks and dead hair is brushed out leaving less hair in the drain when washing

Step 2: Washing Hair

Clarify your scalp and strands by washing it to get rid of the accumulated dirt and oil. There is a myth going around that black women only need to condition thier hair when washing, but this could not be further from the truth.  

Any styling products used will always have some oil listed somewhere in the ingredients, and mixing new oil with the buildup of old oil and dirt will not give you the "Just left the salon," look with the body and bounce that many women desire. 

If you suffer from an itchy scalp the best thing to do after washing your hair is to take a leak proof salon bottle applicator with the pointed nozzle and mix half parts water and five percent apple cider vinegar.  Distribute this throughout your scalp  

and then rinse. The sole idea of this treatment is to focus on the scalp and not so much the strands of your hair. I actually leave a little in my scalp by not completely washing it out, which will not harm the hair at all. 

As for the smell, it will subside after about one hour. Many people are concerned about smelling like salad but fail to realize that just like baking soda, vinegar is a natural odor eliminator resulting in the smell to vanish after about one hour. 

This apple cider vinegar rinse will unclog pores and stimulate hair growth promoting its own oil from the scalp. I recommend this to any sista as I swear by it from my own personal experience. Any hairstyle I've ever had especially protective styles  and sew ins have lasted much longer compared to when I don’t use it. 

Step 3: Condition

Always condition your hair to hydrate and soften the the strands. Conditioning the strands of your hair is the most important part of how your hair will look once blow dried and straightened with flat irons. After washing your hair use a conditioner  

infused with either cocoa nut or argan oil . I prefer argan first over cocoa nut oil. These two oils has a reputation for taming frizz on Afro hair. Coat the strands thoroughly and brush through with another paddle brush. At this point I like to let the  

conditioner marinate for at least five minutes before rinsing. For a deep condition you can place a plastic shower cap over your hair and sit under a hooded dryer for about thirty minutes. Begin rinsing with luke warm water while brushing at the  

same time. Next, here is the most important part of all, leave a little of the conditioner on your strands but be sure that All of the conditioner has been rinsed from your scalp. This can be tricky for some. If you make the mistake of rinsing ALL the  

conditioner out take a pea size amount of it literally, and distribute it throughout your hair. You will want more water in your hair than conditioner to get the perfect balance when it comes to oil and having the body and bounce that every woman  craves when straightening black hair.

Step 4: Blow Dry 

Mist hair very lightly with a good heat protector to prevent any heat damage from your hot tools. Be mindful of the fact that there is still some conditioner left over in your hair so the idea of spraying your heat protectant on very lightly is important to prevent product over load. Comb hair out with a wide tooth comb and part it into four sections. Begin blow drying one section at a time until completely dry. DO NOT leave any of your hair wet, or else the heat will fry and break it right off almost instantly. 

Step 5: Flat Iron

Take a rat tail fine tooth comb and place your part in whichever direction you wish to have it. HINT: the middle part brings the focus down the middle of your face specifically the nose, while a side part accentuates and brings the focus to the natural arch of your eyebrows. This is merely just a matter of personal preference. Next, starting at the bottom of your hair, take the end of the rat tail comb parting a thin section at a time and part from ear to ear, clipping the rest away. Be sure to not use flat irons that are infused with oil. This is where many women make mistakes with self styling due to product over load and cannot get the hair to flow and bounce the way they want. 

If you have left conditioner and a heat protectant spray on your hair, then your hair is getting enough oil already. Now, take your flat irons and begin straightening. Start at the roots of the hair tapping the irons together and bring it all the way down.

Continue this step by parting small sections of the hair until all of your hair has been completely straightened.  

Step 6: Finishing Touch

Once you have flat ironed your entire head completely, go ahead and fix your part if needed and comb through again with a wide tooth comb and leave it. Do not add any oil sheen or serums, or any other type of moisturizers. It does not matter how light of an oil the product claims. Now this is how you get the perfect body. You will notice your hair has sheen from the small amount of conditioner that was not completely washed out. Your hair should flow as if you just left the salon. 

Note: When straightening black hair, many women cannot resist the idea of placing oils or other serums into their hair after flat ironing. This result tends to make the hair look very shiny, black, or synthetic similar to asian or barbie doll hair. Of course this would be up to you, but do be mindful that can be very distracting and make you look like a different person as it is not natural looking at all.

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